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Frequently Asked Questions of
our Wood Fence System
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Redwood
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Treated Wood
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Whitewood
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Redwood |
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Where does Redwood come from?
It's unique to
the Northern California coast and adjacent regions. Redwood is harvested in
commercial forests from San Francisco to Southern Oregon in a strip along
the Pacific Ocean. |
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What's the difference between nominal and actual
thickness?
Nominal is a
size designation most lumber uses for convenience. In lumber, the nominal
size is usually greater than the actual size.
Thickness:
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1" = nominal |
Producers have determined that the |
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3/4" = actual |
thinner sizes still have acceptable |
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21/32" = actual |
performance. Also, due to rising cost, |
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5/8" = actual |
raw-material producers receive a better |
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return with thinner products. |
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How does full width differ from scant width?
All lumber is
produced with the stated width as the target size. As milling has become
more accurate, target sizes have moved closer to surfaced or planed sizes,
i.e. 5 1/2". As the width diminishes, the actual width is scant-or less
than-the nominal width.
Width: 6", 4", 3" - full width
5 1/2", 3 1/2", 2 1/2" - scant width |
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Why do knots fall out of boards, creating holes?
Knots and the
surrounding wood have different densities. Since knots are denser, they
expand and contract less than the surrounding wood, loosening the bond. To
protect against this, use a Premium or #1 board with both faces graded. The
knots will be smaller and intergrown. The cost is slightly more, but your
fence will have a longer serviceable life. |
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What causes Redwood boards to develop black stains at
the nails?
The stain is
caused by natural wood extracts interacting with metal in the fastener.
Moist wood increases the likelihood of this interaction. For Redwood, Cedar
and Cypress, you should use double-dipped galvanized, stainless steel or
aluminum fasteners. |
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Can the stained Redwood be cleaned off?
Yes. If the
stain is brownish, use a solution with Trisodium Phosphate (TSP), available
at retail hardware stores.
If the stain is
black, use a solution with Oxalic Acid to clean the boards. This material is
also available at retail hardware stores.
Commercial
cleaners are available as well. Identify the cause of the stain to ensure
you choose the correct product. Certain concrete cleaners are specifically
formulated to clean wood extracts from patios, sidewalks, or other concrete
structures. |
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What about using bleach and water?
Chlorine-based
or Oxygen-type bleach is effective against mildew and fungi. Oxygen-type
bleach contains sodium percarbonate which when added to water forms hydrogen
peroxide, an effective agent in removing mildew stains, dirt and weathered
gray residue from wood that has ultraviolet (sunlight) degradation. Unlike
chlorine-based bleach, once the wood is treated with the oxygen-type bleach
it will return to its original natural appearance.
Some species of
wood contain tannins, a natural resin. Water can extract these resins from
wood leaving brown or black discolorations on the surface. Blue-black stains
can result from a reaction of tannins to the iron in nails or fasteners.
Neither chlorine nor oxygen bleaches are effective against tannin or iron
stains but use of an oxalic acid-based product mentioned previously, will
render the stains colorless. |
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Why do boards split when fastened with nails?
Correct nails
and nailing practices are essential to successful installation. Choosing a
needle point nail is a common mistake. While the most commonly used nail is
a diamond point, a blunt point will reduce splitting. Overdriving nails is
another problem that distorts wood and causes excessive splitting.
Predrilling will help reduce any splitting that can occur. |
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The boards at the top of my fence are warping. Why?
The backrails
should be no more than 8" from the fence board tops and bottoms. Fence
boards 6' long should have three back rails. Spacing your rails this way
will help control the wood's natural tendency to warp due to expansion and
contraction. |
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What can be done to eliminate the effects of
weathering and keep that "new fence" look?
While there's no
way to eliminate the weathering of wood, it's relatively easy to minimize
the effects:
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Use three back rails (6'
fence), two backrails (4', 5' fence), or 4 backrails (8' fence) for more
hold-down points.
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Use only hot-dipped
galvanized, or stainless steel fasteners with a ring or spiral shank to
minimize warp and rust stains.
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Treat the surfaces of
fence boards with a water-repellant solution to reduce the rate that
moisture is absorbed and released. This solution should also have a good
UV inhibitor if you don't want the fence to gray.
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Follow a regular
maintenance program of cleaning and refinishing every few years with a
"clear" or "toner" water repellant containing UV inhibitors. This will
revitalize a dingy appearance caused by dirt, mildew or graying. It's like
washing and waxing your car. Opinions differ on how necessary it is to
perform regular maintenance, but most agree your fence will look much
better for the effort.
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Treated Wood |
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What's pressure-treated wood?
It's wood that
has been pressure-impregnated with an effective preservative. This treatment
helps wood resist attacks by termites and decay-causing fungi. |
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What are some of the advantages of
pressure-treated wood?
It's economical;
works easily with common tools; is naturally attractive; durable; strong for
its weight; and is readily available in a wide variety of sizes and styles. |
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What kind of treated wood is available?
You can choose
from different grades of treated wood to match your goals for strength and
appearance. Treatment does not affect the lumber grade; it simply makes the
wood last longer. For this reason, domestic and import Pine is a popular
choice. With pine we can specify the proper grade and it readily accepts
treatment. We can provide all the post, rails, and fence boards needed to
"stick-build" an entire fence, plus pre-assembled panels. |
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What guarantee does treated wood have?
No guarantee is
offered. However, we provide a warranty against damage caused by termites
and fungal decay. |
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What about any cracking, warping, and graying that
may show up over time?
Even though
pressure-treated wood is protected from termites and fungal decay, it is
still a porous, natural material. Wood swells when it absorbs moisture and
shrinks when it dries out. The drying process creates stresses in the wood,
which contributes to cracking and warping. The sun's ultra-violet (UV) rays
cause the wood to turn gray. Pressure-treated wood is subject to these
effects, just like other lumber. |
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What can be done to eliminate the effects of
weathering and keep that "new fence" look?
While there's no
way to eliminate the weathering of wood, it's relatively easy to minimize
the effects:
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Use three back rails (6'
fence), two backrails (4', 5' fence), or 4 backrails (8' fence) for more
hold-down points.
-
Use only hot-dipped
galvanized, or stainless steel fasteners with a ring or spiral shank to
minimize warp and rust stains.
-
Treat the surfaces of
fence boards with a water-repellant solution to reduce the rate that
moisture is absorbed and released. This solution should also have a good
UV inhibitor if you don't want the fence to gray.
-
Follow a regular
maintenance program of cleaning and refinishing every few years with a
"clear" or "toner" water repellant containing UV inhibitors. This will
revitalize a dingy appearance caused by dirt, mildew or graying. It's like
washing and waxing your car. Opinions differ on how necessary it is to
perform regular maintenance, but most agree your fence will look much
better for the effort.
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Whitewood |
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What are Whitewoods and where do they grow?
The species
Spruce, Pine and Fir make up the grouping known as Whitewoods. Fence board
cut from these species have a white appearance when first installed. While
these species are prevalent throughout North America, Whitewood fencing
products are produced primarily in a belt ranging from Eastern to Western
Canada. |
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What are the black spots on my boards?
Small,
sooty-looking circular spots are caused by mold or mildew. Mildew occurs
when there's low air circulation, moisture, temperature and food source
(wood). Installing your fence will expose the wood to airflow and stop mold.
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Can the mold or mildew be cleaned off my boards?
Yes, you can
choose from a number of readily available commercial products. Read the
directions closely. They'll describe various wood-cleaning problems and
recommend the proper cleaning solution. |
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How long can I expect my Whitewood fence boards to
last?
Untreated,
unpainted Whitewoods will last 3 to 7 years, depending on local environment
conditions. (Source: USDA Forestry Book.) |
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Why do knots fall out of boards, creating holes?
Knots and the
surrounding wood have different densities. Since knots are denser, they
expand and contract less than the surrounding wood, loosening the bond. To
protect against this, use a Premium or #1 board with both faces graded. The
knots will be smaller and intergrown. The cost is slightly more, but your
fence will have a longer serviceable life. |
Return to Top |
|
What can be done to eliminate the effects of
weathering and keep that "new fence" look?
While there's no
way to eliminate the weathering of wood, it's relatively easy to minimize
the effects:
-
Use three back rails (6'
fence), two backrails (4', 5' fence), or 4 backrails (8' fence) for more
hold-down points.
-
Use only hot-dipped
galvanized, or stainless steel fasteners with a ring or spiral shank to
minimize warp and rust stains.
-
Treat the surfaces of
fence boards with a water-repellant solution to reduce the rate that
moisture is absorbed and released. This solution should also have a good
UV inhibitor if you don't want the fence to gray.
-
Follow a regular
maintenance program of cleaning and refinishing every few years with a
"clear" or "toner" water repellant containing UV inhibitors. This will
revitalize a dingy appearance caused by dirt, mildew or graying. It's like
washing and waxing your car. Opinions differ on how necessary it is to
perform regular maintenance, but most agree your fence will look much
better for the effort.
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